Reference
The Odeon Encyclopedia
The words of fine jewelry, explained by the people who handle it every day: cuts, settings, marks, periods, stones and forms.
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- 14 karat goldMetals & marksGold alloy of 58.5 percent pure gold, marked 14K or 585, long the American standard.
- 18 karat goldMetals & marksGold alloy of 75 percent pure gold, marked 18K or 750: the standard of European fine jewelry.
- 21 and 22 karat goldMetals & marksHigh-carat gold, 87.5 to 91.6 percent pure, warmer in colour and softer than 18 karat.
- 750 and 585 marksMetals & marksFineness marks showing the gold content in parts per thousand: 750 for 18 karat, 585 for 14 karat.
- 9 karat goldMetals & marksGold alloy of 37.5 percent pure gold, marked 9ct or 375, common in British jewelry.
A
- AgateStones & materialsA banded chalcedony, found in layers of colour; the layers make it ideal for cameos.
- Aldo CipulloMakersThe Italian-born designer of Cartier’s Love bracelet (1969) and Juste un Clou (1971).
- AlhambraSignature designsVan Cleef & Arpels’ four-leaf clover motif, introduced in 1968.
- Aluminium in jewelryStones & materialsA light metal that can be coloured, used by some contemporary jewelers beside gold and gems.
- AmethystStones & materialsPurple quartz, once as precious as ruby and sapphire.
- Andrew GrimaMakersThe London jeweler who defined 1960s modern jewelry with textured gold and raw crystals.
- Angela CummingsMakersAmerican designer whose nature-inspired jewels for Tiffany & Co. date from the late 1960s to 1984.
- Antique and vintageCollectingAntique usually means at least 100 years old; vintage usually means at least 20 years old.
- AppraisalCollectingA written valuation of a jewel, prepared for a specific purpose.
- AquamarineStones & materialsBlue to blue-green beryl, the cool stone of Art Deco and Retro jewelry.
- Archaeological RevivalPeriodsNineteenth-century jewelry inspired by ancient Greek, Etruscan and Roman jewels.
- Archive extractCollectingA document from a jewelry house confirming that a piece corresponds to its records.
- Art Deco jewelryPeriodsThe geometric jewelry of the 1920s and 1930s: platinum, diamonds and strong contrasts of color.
- Art Nouveau jewelryPeriodsThe jewelry of nature and line, from about 1895 to 1910: enamel, women, flowers and insects.
- Arts and CraftsPeriodsA movement of about 1880 to 1920 that favoured handmade jewelry, simple stones and visible craftsmanship.
- Attributed toCollectingA specialist’s opinion that a piece was made by a given house or designer, without a signature.
- Audemars PiguetMakersSwiss watchmaker founded in 1875 at Le Brassus, maker of the Royal Oak.
B
- BangleFormsA rigid bracelet, either solid or opening on a hinge.
- Baroque pearlStones & materialsA pearl with an irregular, free-form shape, natural or cultured.
- Basse-tailleSettings & techniquesTranslucent enamel over a metal surface engraved in low relief, so the pattern shows through.
- Beaded goldSettings & techniquesSmall balls of gold set in a row along the edge of a jewel, giving a delicate border.
- BeanSignature designsElsa Peretti’s bean motif for Tiffany & Co.
- Belle Époque jewelryPeriodsThe jewelry of France’s beautiful era, from the 1890s to 1914: platinum, diamonds and garlands.
- Bezel settingSettings & techniquesA setting in which a band of metal surrounds the stone and is pressed over its edge.
- BombéSettings & techniquesA domed, rounded form that swells outward, typical of rings of the 1950s to 1970s.
- BoucheronMakersParis house founded by Frédéric Boucheron in 1858, the first of the modern jewelers on Place Vendôme.
- Bow broochFormsA brooch in the shape of a ribbon tied in a bow.
- British hallmarksMetals & marksA set of marks showing the maker, the fineness, the assay office and often the year.
- Brutalist jewelryPeriodsSculptural jewelry of the 1960s and 1970s with rough, organic surfaces.
- BuccellatiMakersMilan jewelers since 1919, whose engraved gold looks like lace, linen or silk.
- Buckle motifFormsA ring, bracelet or brooch in the form of a belt and buckle.
- Burmese rubyStones & materialsRuby from Myanmar, especially the Mogok valley, prized for its intense red known as pigeon’s blood.
- Buyer’s premiumCollectingThe fee an auction house adds to the hammer price, paid by the buyer.
C
- CameoFormsA carving in relief, usually in shell or hardstone, using contrasting layers of color.
- CannetilleSettings & techniquesGold work of coiled and twisted wire, typical of jewels of the 1820s and 1830s.
- Carlo GiulianoMakersNaples-born jeweler in London from around 1860, master of enamel and the Revival styles.
- CarnelianStones & materialsAn orange to red-brown chalcedony, translucent and warm in colour.
- Carré cutCutsA small square step cut, set edge to edge in lines and borders, typical of Art Deco jewelry.
- Carved gemstoneCutsA gem carved into a leaf, flower, bead or figure rather than faceted.
- CastellaniMakersRoman jewelers founded in 1814, the founders of the Archaeological Revival.
- Ceylon sapphireStones & materialsSapphire from Sri Lanka, known for its bright, luminous blue.
- ChalcedonyStones & materialsA translucent form of quartz, famously carved in soft blue by Suzanne Belperron.
- ChamplevéSettings & techniquesEnamel laid into hollows carved or cast into the metal.
- ChanelMakersFine jewelry from the couture house, beginning with Coco Chanel’s diamond collection of 1932.
- Channel settingSettings & techniquesA row of stones set between two parallel walls of metal.
- Charles JacqueauMakersCartier’s great designer of the Art Deco years, who worked for the house from 1909.
- Charm braceletFormsA bracelet hung with small pendants, collected and added over time.
- ChaumetMakersParis house founded in 1780 by Marie-Étienne Nitot, jeweler to Napoleon.
- Chaîne d’ancreSignature designsHermès’ anchor chain, designed in 1938.
- ChokerFormsA necklace worn close around the neck, also called a collar or collier de chien.
- ChopardMakersSwiss house founded in 1860, known for Happy Diamonds, introduced in 1976.
- ChrysopraseStones & materialsAn apple-green chalcedony, coloured by nickel.
- Cigarette caseFormsA flat case for cigarettes, made in silver, gold or enamel.
- CitrineStones & materialsYellow to orange quartz, the golden stone of Retro jewelry.
- Claw settingSettings & techniquesA setting in which the stone is held by small metal claws or prongs.
- CloisonnéSettings & techniquesEnamel laid into small cells formed by thin wires soldered to the metal.
- Closed-back settingSettings & techniquesA setting enclosed behind the stone, often with a foil to enhance its color, typical of Georgian jewelry.
- Cocktail ringFormsA large, bold ring made to be noticed, born in the 1930s and at its height in the 1940s and 1950s.
- Colombian emeraldStones & materialsEmerald from Colombia, the source of the finest green emeralds for five centuries.
- Convertible jewelFormsA jewel designed to be worn in more than one way.
- CoralStones & materialsAn organic gem from the sea, used in jewelry in shades from pale pink to deep red.
- CufflinksFormsPairs of ornaments that fasten a shirt cuff.
- Cultured pearlStones & materialsA pearl grown with human help, by placing a nucleus inside the mollusk.
D
- David WebbMakersNew York jeweler, founded in 1948, famous for enamelled animals and bold gold.
- Demantoid garnetStones & materialsA vivid green garnet from the Urals, with a fire stronger than diamond.
- Dog’s head markMetals & marksThe French mark for platinum, introduced in 1912.
- Double clip broochFormsA brooch made of two clips that can be worn together or separately.
- Dress clipFormsA jewel with a hinged clip on the back, made to fasten to a neckline, lapel or hat.
E
- Eagle’s head markMetals & marksThe French mark for 18 karat gold, in use since 1838.
- Ear clipFormsAn earring fastened with a hinged clip rather than a post through a pierced ear.
- Edwardian jewelryPeriodsThe platinum and diamond jewelry of the early 1900s: light, lacy and garlanded.
- Egyptian RevivalPeriodsJewelry inspired by ancient Egypt: scarabs, lotus flowers, sphinxes and hieroglyphs.
- Elsa PerettiMakersItalian designer who joined Tiffany & Co. in 1974 and made organic minimalism a modern classic.
- En tremblantFormsElements mounted on tiny springs so that they tremble and sparkle with every movement.
- EnamelSettings & techniquesColored glass fused to metal at high temperature.
- Engagement ringFormsA ring given as a promise of marriage, traditionally set with a diamond.
- EngravingSettings & techniquesLines and patterns cut into the surface of metal with a sharp tool.
- Estate jewelryCollectingJewelry that has been previously owned, whatever its age.
- Eternity bandFormsA ring set with stones all the way around, symbolizing endless love.
F
- FabergéMakersThe St Petersburg house of Peter Carl Fabergé, jeweler to the Russian imperial family.
- FiligreeSettings & techniquesDelicate openwork made from fine twisted wires of gold or silver.
- FlutingSettings & techniquesParallel grooves cut or modelled into gold or a stone, like the flutes of a classical column.
- FouquetMakersParis house of the Fouquet family, masters of Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewelry.
- Frank GehryMakersThe architect’s sculptural jewelry for Tiffany & Co., launched in 2006.
- FredMakersParis jeweler founded by Fred Samuel in 1936, known for the Force 10 bracelet.
- Fred LeightonMakersNew York dealer in antique and estate jewelry, famous on the red carpet.
- Fringe necklaceFormsA necklace hung with a row of drops or small pendants along its length.
G
- Garland stylePeriodsBelle Époque jewelry of platinum and diamonds in delicate wreaths, bows and lace-like patterns.
- GarnetStones & materialsA family of gemstones, from the deep red of Bohemian garnets to the green of demantoid.
- Gay FrèresMakersGeneva workshop founded in 1835, famous for gold mesh bracelets and watch bracelets.
- Gemological reportCollectingA laboratory report describing a stone: its identity, weight, quality and, for colored gems, origin and treatment.
- Georg JensenMakersDanish silversmith, founded in Copenhagen in 1904, the home of Scandinavian modern jewelry.
- Georges LenfantMakersParis workshop famous for woven gold and supple chains made for the great houses.
- Georgian jewelryPeriodsJewelry made during the reigns of the four Georges, 1714 to 1837: hand-made, candlelit and rare.
- Gilbert AlbertMakersGeneva jeweler known for organic, sculptural designs with meteorites, fossils and unusual stones.
- GranulationSettings & techniquesDecoration made of tiny grains of gold fused to a gold surface.
- GuillochéSettings & techniquesA fine, regular pattern engraved by a machine, often seen through translucent enamel.
- Gypsy settingSettings & techniquesA stone set flush into the metal, with only its top visible.
- Gérard SandozMakersArt Deco modernist whose bold geometric jewels were made in only a few years.
- GübelinMakersLucerne jewelers since 1854, whose gemological laboratory is one of the world’s most respected.
H
- HallmarkMetals & marksAn official mark guaranteeing the purity of precious metal, struck after testing.
- Halo ringFormsA ring in which a central stone is framed by a circle of smaller stones.
- Hammered goldSettings & techniquesGold finished with small hammer marks that break up the surface and catch the light.
- HardstoneStones & materialsA general name for opaque or translucent ornamental stones such as lapis lazuli, malachite, onyx, chrysoprase and turquoise.
- Harry WinstonMakersThe King of Diamonds, New York jeweler famous for great stones.
- Heart-shaped cutCutsA brilliant cut in the outline of a heart, with two lobes and a point.
- Heat treatmentStones & materialsHeating of a gemstone to improve its color or clarity, common for sapphires and rubies.
- HemmerleMakersMunich jewelers since 1893, celebrated for modern jewels combining rare stones with iron, copper and wood.
- Henry DunayMakersNew York goldsmith known for faceted gold and his textured “sabi” finish.
- HermèsMakersThe Paris house of saddlery and leather, whose gold and silver jewelry draws on equestrian and marine themes.
- Hoop earringsFormsEarrings in the form of a ring, from slender to bold.
I
- Ilias LalaounisMakersAthens jeweler who revived ancient Greek and Byzantine designs in high-carat gold.
- IntaglioFormsA design carved into the surface of a stone, the reverse of a cameo, often used as a seal.
- Italian star markMetals & marksThe Italian maker’s mark since 1968: a star, a number and a province code.
J
- J.E. Caldwell & Co.MakersPhiladelphia jewelers founded in 1839, makers of fine American jewelry.
- JARMakersJoel Arthur Rosenthal, the New York-born jeweler working in Paris since 1978, and the most exclusive name in modern jewelry.
- JadeStones & materialsA name for two different stones, jadeite and nephrite, both prized for their toughness and colour.
- Jardinière broochFormsA brooch in the form of a basket or vase of flowers, often set with colourful gems.
- JasperStones & materialsAn opaque, richly coloured quartz, often patterned, found in reds, greens, browns and yellows.
- Jean DesprésMakersFrench goldsmith of the Art Deco years whose jewels were inspired by machines.
- Jean SchlumbergerMakersFrench designer whose jewels for Tiffany & Co., from 1956, are among the most celebrated of the twentieth century.
- Jean VendomeMakersFrench jeweler often called the father of modern jewelry, known for mineral specimens set in gold.
- Jeanne ToussaintMakersCartier’s director of fine jewelry from 1933, the creator of the house’s three-dimensional panther.
- Judith LeiberMakersHungarian-born designer of jewelled minaudières, founded in New York in 1963.
- Juste un ClouSignature designsCartier’s bracelet in the form of a nail bent around the wrist, designed by Aldo Cipullo in 1971.
K
- Kashmir sapphireStones & materialsSapphire from the mines of Kashmir, worked briefly in the 1880s, famous for its velvety cornflower blue.
- Kieselstein-CordMakersAmerican designer Barry Kieselstein-Cord, known for sculpted belt buckles and animal motifs.
- KutchinskyMakersLondon family jewelers, famous for bold gold and coloured stones in the 1960s and 1970s.
L
- Lacloche FrèresMakersParis jewelers of the late nineteenth century to the 1930s, known for Art Deco jewels and objects.
- Lapel watchFormsA small watch worn pinned to a lapel or a dress, rather than on the wrist.
- Lapis lazuliStones & materialsA deep blue stone flecked with gold-colored pyrite, mined in Afghanistan for millennia.
- LariatFormsA long necklace with no clasp, whose ends are knotted or passed through a loop.
- Line VautrinMakersFrench artist of the 1940s and 1950s whose gilt bronze jewels are poetic and witty.
- LocketFormsA pendant that opens to hold a portrait, a lock of hair or a keepsake.
- Love braceletSignature designsA Cartier bangle fastened with screws, designed by Aldo Cipullo in 1969.
- LudoSignature designsA Van Cleef & Arpels design of supple bracelets made of small gold links, introduced in 1934.
M
- Maker’s markMetals & marksThe registered mark of the workshop or jeweler who made a piece; in France, struck in a lozenge.
- Mappin & WebbMakersBritish silversmiths and jewelers with origins in Sheffield in the eighteenth century, holders of royal warrants.
- MarchakMakersJewelry house founded in Kiev in 1878 by Joseph Marchak, later established in Paris.
- Marcus & Co.MakersNew York jewelers founded in 1892, known for Art Nouveau enamel and coloured stones.
- Marianne OstierMakersVienna-born designer working in New York, known for elegant mid-century jewels.
- Marina BMakersMarina Bulgari’s own house, founded in 1978, known for bold, wearable designs and unusual cuts.
- Married pieceCollectingA jewel assembled from parts that did not originally belong together.
- MauboussinMakersParis house whose origins date to 1827, celebrated for its colourful Art Deco jewels.
- Mellerio dits MellerMakersOne of the oldest jewelry houses in the world, in Paris since 1613.
- Melon cutCutsBeads carved with lengthwise grooves, so that they resemble small melons.
- MicromosaicSettings & techniquesPictures made of minute pieces of coloured glass, set in jewels and boxes.
- Mid-century jewelryPeriodsThe jewelry of the 1950s and 1960s: textured gold, flowers, animals and color.
- MillegrainSettings & techniquesA border of tiny beads along the edge of a setting, typical of Belle Époque and Edwardian jewels.
- MinaudièreFormsA small, rigid evening case with compartments for compact, lipstick and other necessities.
- Modern jewelryPeriodsThe signed jewelry of the 1970s to the 1990s: bold gold, hardstones and icons.
- MoneteSignature designsBulgari jewels set with ancient coins.
- MoonstoneStones & materialsA feldspar that shows a soft, floating blue or white sheen, called adularescence.
- Mother-of-pearlStones & materialsThe iridescent lining of mollusk shells, used for inlays and carved motifs.
- Mourning jewelryFormsJewelry worn in memory of the dead, from Georgian rings to Victorian jet.
- Mystery settingSettings & techniquesVan Cleef & Arpels’ setting of 1933, in which rubies or sapphires sit on hidden rails so that no metal shows.
N
- NardiMakersVenetian jeweler on Piazza San Marco, known for its carved and enamelled Moretto jewels.
- Natural pearlStones & materialsA pearl formed in a mollusk without human intervention, rare and far more valuable than a cultured pearl.
- NielloSettings & techniquesA black metallic alloy inlaid into engraved silver or gold, giving dark designs on a bright ground.
- No heatCollectingA laboratory finding that a ruby or sapphire shows no indications of heat treatment.
O
- Objet de vertuFormsA small precious object, such as a box, cigarette case, desk clock or letter opener, made with the skill of a jeweler.
- OnyxStones & materialsA black stone, usually dyed chalcedony, used for strong graphic contrast with diamonds and gold.
- OpalStones & materialsA gem that shows flashes of spectral colour, called play-of-colour.
- Oscar HeymanMakersNew York manufacturing jeweler since 1912, known as the jewelers’ jeweler.
- Oval cutCutsAn elliptical brilliant cut, long and soft in outline, given its modern form in the late 1950s.
- Owl markMetals & marksA French mark showing an owl, struck on gold and silver imported into France.
P
- Paloma PicassoMakersDesigner for Tiffany & Co. since 1980, known for bold graphic forms and strong coloured stones.
- Panthère de CartierSignature designsCartier’s panther, the house’s most famous emblem.
- Paper clip chainSettings & techniquesA chain of long, flat oval or rectangular links shaped like paper clips.
- ParentesiSignature designsBulgari’s modular link design, introduced in 1982.
- ParureFormsA matching set of jewels, such as a necklace, earrings, brooch and bracelet.
- PasteStones & materialsHigh-quality cut glass, made into fine jewelry in its own right in the eighteenth century.
- Paul FlatoMakersWitty society jeweler of 1930s New York and Hollywood.
- PennyweightMetals & marksA unit of weight used in the American jewelry trade, equal to one twentieth of a troy ounce, or 1.555 grams.
- PeridotStones & materialsA yellowish-green gemstone, the gem variety of the mineral olivine.
- Peter LemarchandMakersThe Cartier designer who drew the panthers and big cats of Jeanne Toussaint’s era.
- PiagetMakersSwiss watchmaker founded in 1874, famous for its jewelry watches and hardstone dials of the 1960s and 1970s.
- Pierre SterléMakersParis jeweler of the 1940s to 1970s, known for textured gold, birds and fringe-like gold work.
- Pill boxFormsA small hinged box for pills or tablets, often made by jewelers in gold and stones.
- PlatinumMetals & marksA dense, strong white metal that transformed fine jewelry from around 1900.
- Plique-à-jourSettings & techniquesTranslucent enamel with no backing, so light passes through it like stained glass.
- PoirayMakersParis house founded in 1975, known for jewelry watches with interchangeable straps.
- PomellatoMakersMilan jeweler founded in 1967, which brought colourful, wearable gold to everyday fashion.
- Portrait miniatureSettings & techniquesA small painted portrait set in a locket, brooch or pendant.
- ProvenanceCollectingThe documented history of a jewel: who owned it, where it was sold and how it was worn.
- PuiforcatMakersParis silversmiths founded in 1820, made famous by Jean Puiforcat’s Art Deco silver.
R
- Raymond TemplierMakersParis modernist of the Art Deco years, known for strict geometric jewels.
- Raymond YardMakersNew York jeweler founded in 1922, whose clients included the Rockefellers.
- René BoivinMakersParis house founded in 1890, famous for its sculptural animals and bold designs by remarkable women.
- René LaliqueMakersThe greatest jeweler of Art Nouveau, later famous for glass.
- Renée PuissantMakersArtistic director of Van Cleef & Arpels from 1926 to 1942.
- RepousséSettings & techniquesA design hammered into metal from the back to create relief on the front.
- Retailer’s signatureCollectingA signature showing who sold a jewel, which is not always who made it.
- Retro jewelryPeriodsThe bold gold jewelry of the late 1930s and 1940s: volume, rose gold and Hollywood glamour.
- Rivière necklaceFormsA necklace of graduated stones, each in its own setting, flowing like a river.
- Rock crystalStones & materialsColorless quartz, carved or frosted, a favorite of Art Deco and modernist jewelers.
- Rope chainSettings & techniquesA chain whose links are twisted together so that it looks like a rope.
- Rose goldMetals & marksGold alloyed with copper for a warm pink color, characteristic of Retro jewelry.
S
- SautoirFormsA long necklace, often ending in a tassel or pendant, fashionable from the Belle Époque to the 1920s.
- Scandinavian modernPeriodsTwentieth-century Danish and Scandinavian jewelry of simple, organic forms, mostly in silver.
- Seaman ScheppsMakersAmerican jeweler since 1904, known for shell jewelry and bold, colourful designs.
- Seed pearlStones & materialsTiny natural pearls, used in delicate Georgian and Victorian jewelry.
- Serial numberMetals & marksA number struck or engraved on a jewel by the house that made or sold it.
- SerpentiSignature designsBulgari’s serpent, as bracelets, watches and necklaces.
- Signed jewelryCollectingJewelry that carries the name of the house or designer that made it.
- Signet ringFormsA ring with a flat face, often engraved with initials or arms and once used to seal documents.
- Silver-topped goldMetals & marksSilver on the front and gold on the back, the standard setting for diamonds before platinum.
- Sixteen Stone ringSignature designsA ring by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., set with sixteen stones held by gold X-shaped crossings.
- Smoky quartzStones & materialsA brown to grey variety of quartz, transparent and often found in large sizes.
- Snake jewelryFormsJewels in the form of a serpent, a symbol of eternity and love.
- Solange Azagury-PartridgeMakersLondon jeweler known for colour, wit and the Hotlips ring.
- SpinelStones & materialsA gemstone found in reds, pinks and blues, long mistaken for ruby.
- Spray broochFormsA brooch in the form of a bunch of flowers or leaves.
- Star sapphireStones & materialsA sapphire cut as a cabochon to show a six-rayed star, caused by fine needles of rutile inside the stone.
- Step cutCutsA family of cuts with long, flat facets arranged in rows parallel to the edge of the stone, like the steps of a staircase.
- Sterling silverMetals & marksSilver of 92.5 percent purity, marked 925 or Sterling.
- Suzanne BelperronMakersThe great French designer who refused to sign her jewels: “My style is my signature.”
- Synthetic gemstoneStones & materialsA stone made in a laboratory with the same composition and structure as its natural counterpart.
T
- TaffinMakersNew York jewelry house founded by James de Givenchy in 1996.
- Tank ringFormsA bold Retro ring with stepped, sculptural shoulders, named after the forms of the tank.
- TasselFormsA bundle of chains, beads or pearls ending a necklace or earring.
- Textured goldSettings & techniquesGold given a surface pattern, such as bark, satin, hammered or Florentine finishes, rather than a mirror polish.
- Toi et moiFormsA ring set with two stones side by side, “you and me”, a symbol of two lives joined.
- Tony DuquetteMakersLos Angeles designer whose baroque jewels combine minerals, shells and gems.
- TopazStones & materialsA hard, brilliant gemstone; the most prized colour, imperial topaz, is a golden orange to pink.
- TourmalineStones & materialsA gemstone found in more colours than almost any other, from pink and green to blue and bicoloured.
- Trabert & HoefferMakersNew York jewelers of the 1930s and 1940s, known for their Reflection jewelry with Mauboussin.
- TrinitySignature designsCartier’s ring of three interlaced bands of gold, designed in 1924.
- TubogasSettings & techniquesBands of gold wound tightly around a core without solder, creating a supple, spring-like tube.
- TurquoiseStones & materialsAn opaque sky-blue to green stone, prized above all from Persia.
- Tutti FruttiSignature designsCartier jewels of carved rubies, emeralds and sapphires set among diamonds, from the 1920s and 1930s.
- Two-tone goldMetals & marksJewelry combining yellow and white gold, or gold and platinum, for contrast.
V
- VerduraMakersThe jewelry house of Fulco di Verdura, the Sicilian duke who designed Chanel’s Maltese cross cuffs.
- Verger FrèresMakersParis workshop that made jewels, watches and objects for the great Paris houses in the Art Deco years.
- VermeilMetals & marksSilver covered with a layer of gold, also called silver-gilt.
- VhernierMakersMilan house founded in 1984, known for sculptural, minimal gold and stone combinations.
- Victorian jewelryPeriodsJewelry of Queen Victoria’s reign, 1837 to 1901: romantic, grand and then aesthetic.
W
- WedgwoodMakersEnglish ceramics firm founded in 1759, whose jasperware cameos were set in jewelry.
- White goldMetals & marksGold alloyed with white metals to give it a pale color, widely used from the 1920s.
- Wood in jewelryStones & materialsRare and exotic woods set in gold, used by a number of contemporary jewelers.
- Woven goldSettings & techniquesGold wire woven or knitted like fabric into supple bracelets, necklaces and ribbons.
Z
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