The Encyclopedia · Settings & techniques
Filigree
Delicate openwork made from fine twisted wires of gold or silver.
Filigree is openwork made from fine wires, often twisted or beaded, soldered together into scrolls, flowers and lace-like patterns. It is one of the oldest goldsmithing techniques, found in many cultures, and it returned to fashion in Victorian jewelry and again in the 1920s, when machine-made filigree became common in white gold rings.
What to look for
Hand-made filigree has slight variations; die-struck imitations are flatter and more regular. Check for broken or bent wires.
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