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The Encyclopedia · Settings & techniques

Cannetille

Gold work of coiled and twisted wire, typical of jewels of the 1820s and 1830s.

Cannetille is a form of gold wire work in which fine wire is coiled into tight spirals, rosettes and scrolls, often combined with granulation and set with colored stones such as amethyst, topaz and chrysoberyl. It takes its name from a French embroidery technique using coiled metal thread.

Cannetille was fashionable in the 1820s and 1830s, when gold was scarce and this technique made a little gold go a long way.

What to look for

The coils are fragile: look for crushed or missing elements, especially on high points.

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