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The Encyclopedia · Settings & techniques

Guilloché

A fine, regular pattern engraved by a machine, often seen through translucent enamel.

Guilloché, or engine turning, is a pattern of fine, regular lines cut into metal by a rose engine or straight-line machine. Waves, sunbursts and basket weaves catch the light and give the surface movement.

Guilloché is often covered with translucent enamel, which lets the pattern shine through, a technique perfected by Fabergé and used on watches, compacts and jewels throughout the Belle Époque and Art Deco years.

What to look for

The pattern should be crisp and even. Under enamel, look for chips and cracks, which are difficult to restore invisibly.

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