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The Encyclopedia · Periods

Modern jewelry

The signed jewelry of the 1970s to the 1990s: bold gold, hardstones and icons.

From the 1970s to the 1990s the great houses created many of the icons collectors seek today: Van Cleef & Arpels’ Alhambra, Cartier’s Love and Juste un Clou, Bulgari’s Serpenti and Bulgari Bulgari, Tiffany’s Peretti and Schlumberger designs. Gold was heavy and bold, often combined with hardstones such as onyx, coral, lapis and malachite.

What to look for

These are the most copied jewels of all, so signatures, serial numbers and weight matter. Read more in our guides to the 1970s and the 1980s and 1990s.

In the collection

Modern jewelry, available now

Related terms

All terms in the encyclopedia