Claw setting

In a claw or prong setting, a stone is held by small metal arms that rise around it and fold over its edge. Claws let light reach the stone from every side and show as much of it as possible, which is why they became the classic setting for diamond solitaires from the late nineteenth century.

Claws can be pointed, rounded, flat or doubled, and their style often helps to date a piece.

What to look for

Claws wear thin over time. Check that each one is still holding the stone firmly; re-tipped claws are a normal repair but should be disclosed.