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The Encyclopedia · Metals & marks

Platinum

A dense, strong white metal that transformed fine jewelry from around 1900.

Platinum became the metal of fine jewelry around 1900. It is dense, strong and white, so it can be worked into fine, lace-like settings that hold diamonds securely without darkening them as silver does. It defined the Belle Époque, Edwardian and Art Deco styles.

During the Second World War platinum was restricted for military use in several countries, and jewelers turned to gold, which helped create the Retro style.

What to look for

Platinum is marked PLAT, PT or with a fineness such as 950, and in France with the dog’s head. It is noticeably heavier than gold of the same size.

In the collection

Platinum, available now

Related terms

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