The Encyclopedia · Metals & marks
Eagle’s head mark
The French mark for 18 karat gold, in use since 1838.
Since 1838, French gold of 18 karat has been marked with an eagle’s head, struck by the state assay office after testing. Its small outline varies with the size of the punch and the period, and it is found on clasps, shanks and the backs of jewels.
It is the most important mark to recognize on French jewelry, including the Paris pieces of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Chaumet.
What to look for
The eagle’s head should be clearly struck and accompanied by a maker’s mark. A French signature without French marks, on a piece said to be made in Paris, needs an explanation.
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