Created in France circa 1880, this remarkable brooch brings together the imaginative ornament of the late nineteenth century and the delicacy of French enamelwork. At its center, a fantastical dragon is rendered in silver, its sinuous body twisting into an intricate arrangement of wings, claws, and curling forms. Rose-cut diamonds illuminate the creature's textured surface, while a small ruby-colored eye lends an arresting touch of life.

Surrounding the dragon is a circular gold border framed by alternating red and blue enamel lobes, each decorated with a delicate white foliate motif. Small diamond-set points punctuate the outer edge, giving the composition the appearance of a jeweled medieval medallion. The enamel decoration is attributed to Charles Riffault, whose name is associated with the sophisticated revival of historic enameling techniques in nineteenth-century France.

The dragon was a particularly compelling subject for the Victorian imagination, reflecting the period's fascination with mythology, medieval ornament, and the decorative arts of distant cultures. Here, its fantastical character is tempered by the precision of the metalwork and the jewel-like intensity of the enamel. The brooch bears the French eagle's head hallmark and the maker's mark of Henri Fourot, providing an important connection to the Parisian goldsmithing tradition of the period.

A creature of legend, held captive within a circle of color and light.

Details

• Maker: Henri Fourot (maker's mark)
• Period: Circa 1880, Victorian
• Metal: Gold and silver
• Stones & Carat Weight: Rose-cut diamonds; carat weight not specified
• Design: Openwork dragon motif within a circular border of red and blue enamel, decorated with white painted foliate motifs
• Enamel: Attributed to Charles Riffault
• Weight: 11.10 grams
• Hallmarks: French eagle's head hallmark and Henri Fourot maker's mark
• Origin: France
• Condition: Excellent vintage condition
• Internal ID: PI65237