A succession of vivid green emeralds, carved and polished, suspended within a generous chain of sculpted gold.
Created by David Webb in the 1960s, this remarkable long necklace features approximately 100 carats of emeralds, alternating between smooth cabochons and intricately carved floral medallions. Each stone is held within an open circular gold setting, connected by substantial, rounded links of polished 18K yellow gold. The carved emeralds introduce a delicate botanical vocabulary, their translucent green surfaces revealing finely modeled petals and subtle variations in color, while the smaller cabochons provide moments of quiet simplicity between the more elaborate elements.
David Webb's fascination with ancient jewelry, ornamental hardstones, and bold architectural forms was central to the identity of his New York house. During the 1960s, his designs departed from the delicate proportions of traditional fine jewelry, embracing substantial goldwork, richly colored gemstones, and sculptural compositions inspired by historical adornment. This necklace reflects that distinctive sensibility, combining the visual weight of a monumental gold chain with the intricate artistry of carved emeralds.
Its construction is particularly compelling. Measuring 30 inches in its full configuration, the necklace incorporates two detachable sections of approximately 6.5 inches each, allowing it to be worn in three different lengths. The modular design preserves the rhythm of the alternating links and emeralds while offering distinct proportions for different necklines. Weighing 215 grams, the piece has considerable substance, yet its open links and articulated construction lend it a graceful, fluid movement.
The necklace is signed David Webb, an important expression of the designer's ability to bring together color, ornament, and engineering within a single jewel.
A chain of golden circles, carrying the quiet intricacy of emerald flowers.
