A deep green emerald rests at the heart of a golden blossom, its surrounding diamonds catching the light among sculpted, curling petals.
Created by Cartier in France circa 1970 and attributed in the supplied inventory to designer Aldo Cipullo, this richly dimensional brooch centers on an 8.00-carat cabochon emerald, its smooth, saturated green surface surrounded by approximately 2.35 carats of white diamonds. The central floral motif is framed by an elaborate arrangement of rounded, curling gold forms, whose deeply modeled surfaces create an interplay of light, shadow, and texture.
Aldo Cipullo occupies a distinctive place in Cartier's twentieth-century history. The Italian-born designer joined Cartier New York in the late 1960s and became closely associated with the house's move toward bold, sculptural gold jewelry, most famously through his creation of the Love bracelet. This brooch reflects a similarly confident treatment of gold, although its naturalistic ornamentation offers a more romantic expression of the period's design language.
The generous volume of the 18K gold setting contrasts with the concentrated brilliance of the diamonds and the quiet depth of the emerald. Measuring 2 inches in height and weighing 49.4 grams, the brooch has the presence of a small sculpture, its floral contours lending movement to an otherwise substantial form.
A golden flower gathered around a single pool of green.
