Three golden bows, their sculpted folds traced in diamonds, capture the movement of silk in precious metal.
Created by Cartier in France during the 1950s, this remarkable suite comprises three matching ribbon bow brooches: one larger central example accompanied by two smaller brooches of identical design. Crafted in 18K yellow gold and set with approximately 20.00 carats of brilliant-cut and baguette-cut diamonds, each bow is composed of overlapping, openwork loops, their edges defined by delicate twisted gold borders. Diamond-set bands gather the ribbons at their centers, while individual brilliant-cut diamonds appear suspended within the openwork, connected by slender baguette-set elements.
The bow has long occupied an important place in Cartier's decorative vocabulary, drawing upon the traditions of French fashion, ribbonwork, and ornamental dress. In the mid-twentieth century, the maison continued to explore the motif through sculptural goldwork and increasingly expressive interpretations of fabric and movement. This suite reflects that sensibility, translating the softness of tied ribbons into an intricate arrangement of polished gold, ropework, and diamond-set contours.
The construction is especially compelling in its treatment of negative space. Rather than creating solid diamond-covered surfaces, Cartier allows the openwork gold framework to remain visible, giving each brooch a sense of lightness despite the richness of its materials. The brilliant-cut diamonds punctuate the curves with concentrated flashes of light, while the baguette-cut stones introduce a quieter, linear brilliance. The twisted gold borders lend the ribbons a tactile quality, recalling the fine cords and decorative trimmings of traditional French passementerie.
All three brooches bear the Cartier signature and matching serial number, preserving their identity as a unified suite. Their differing proportions allow them to be worn together as a coordinated arrangement or individually, with the larger bow providing a focal point and the smaller examples offering a more discreet expression of the same design.
A trio of ribbons held in gold, their folds illuminated by diamonds.
