Raymond Yard Calibré Ruby and 14k Yellow Gold Leaf Brooch, 1940s

Form, sharpened by detail.

This Raymond Yard brooch from the 1940s takes the natural curve of a leaf and renders it with precision, restraint, and quiet authority. Executed in 14k yellow gold, the surface is richly textured—fine striations cut across the body to mimic organic veining, catching light in a controlled, matte shimmer rather than overt polish.

Running through the center, a line of calibré-cut rubies introduces structure and contrast. Set tightly within a gold channel, the stones form a continuous ribbon of saturated red, their geometry deliberate against the softness of the surrounding gold. The calibré work is exacting, each ruby cut to fit seamlessly within the line—an approach associated with high-level American craftsmanship of the period.

The silhouette curves naturally, with the stem extending into a gentle taper, giving the piece both movement and balance. At 2½ inches in length and weighing 24 grams, it carries presence without excess—substantial, yet refined in execution.

Raymond Yard’s work is defined by discipline: material, proportion, and finish held in careful equilibrium. This brooch reflects that philosophy clearly—ornament reduced to structure, nature translated into line.

• Maker: Raymond Yard

• Period: Circa 1940s

• Origin: United States

• Metal: 14k Yellow Gold

• Stones: Calibré-cut Rubies

• Length: 2.5 inches

• Weight: 24 grams

• Condition: Very good vintage condition with wear consistent with age