Platinum Art Deco French amethyst and diamond jabot pin

There are brooches—and then there are declarations.

This exceptional jabot brooch, handcrafted in platinum and set with carved amethyst and luminous diamonds, was created for the house of Aucoc and exhibited at the 1929 Exposition in Paris. More than ornament, it is an artifact of French modernism—when craft met spectacle and elegance was redefined.

The amethyst, cut into curvaceous, bell-like blooms, radiates with a saturated violet hue—voluptuous yet precise. Wrapped in a cascade of round white diamonds, approximately 3.5 carats total (VS2 clarity, I color), the composition evokes motion, breath, and bloom. A tension between structure and sensuality plays out in the platinum framework, catching light like a whispered secret.

While Aucoc’s postwar collections were often realized in collaboration with the great Parisian workshops of the day—Dumont, Basset, Jolly et Sellier—this brooch carries the signature grace and rigor of their collective genius. Likely executed between 1923 and 1925, it bridges two decades and lingers on the cusp of transformation: Art Nouveau’s final sigh, Art Deco’s first kiss.

It was made to be seen. But not by everyone.

• Maison: Aucoc

• Origin: France

• Year: Circa 1925

• Exhibition: Paris, 1929

• Metal: Platinum

• Gemstones: Carved amethyst, approx. 3.5 carats of round white diamonds (VS2 clarity, I color)

• Workshop: Possibly Dumont or Basset

• Reference No: PI56389

A jewel that once graced the halls of the 1929 Paris Exposition.

Unless it’s waiting to return.